For another five minutes we tore through the waves, which as we neared the shore became wilder and rougher.

Our boat, half full of water, staggered at every shock, and more than once we believed her last plunge had been taken.
On either side of us, for the little distance we could see through the mist, there was nothing but white foam and surging billows; behind us rushed the towering waves, overtaking us one by one, tossing us aloft and dashing us down, till every board of our boat creaked and groaned.
Above us the rain poured in torrents, dashing on to our bare heads, and blinding us whenever we turned our faces back.
Then Hall cried out, "Listen! those must be breakers behind us!" Assuredly they were! On either side we could hear the deafening thunder of the surf as it dashed over the rocks.
"Then, thank God!" exclaimed Hall, "we must have got in between two reefs; perhaps we shall go aground on the sand!" The next two minutes are past description.

Hutton crawled down beside me where I sat, and I could feel his hand on my arm, but I had no eyes except for Charlie, who sat pale and motionless with Hall's arm round him.
"Now!" shouted Hall, abandoning the tiller, and tightening his hold on the boy.
There was a roar and a rush behind us, our boat swooped up with the wave, and hung for a moment trembling on its crest, then it fell, and in an instant we were in the water.
Hutton was beside me as the rush back of that huge wave swept us off our feet.

I seized him by the arm, and next moment we were struggling to keep our heads up.

Then came another monster, and lifted us like straws, flinging us before it on to the strand, and then rolling and foaming over us as we staggered to our feet.
Hutton, half stunned, had been swept from my hold, but mercifully was still within reach.