It is necessary to reverse the chisel in this way a number of times, in order to remove the wire edge, but the chisel should never be tipped so as to put any bevel at all on its flat side.

Finally, the edge is touched up (stropped) by being drawn over a piece of leather a few times, first on one side, then on the other, still continuing to hold the chisel so as to keep the bevel perfect.
[Illustration: Fig.78.Grinding Angle, 20 deg.

Whetting Angle, 25 deg.] To test the sharpness of a whetted edge, draw the tip of the finger or thumb lightly along it, Fig.79.If the edge be dull, it will feel smooth: if it be sharp, and if care be taken, it will score the skin a little, not enough to cut thru, but just enough to be felt.
[Illustration: Fig.79.Testing the Sharpness of a Chisel.] The _gouge_ is a form of chisel, the blade of which is concave, and hence the edge curved.

When the bevel is on the outside, the common form, it is called an outside bevel gouge or simply a "gouge," Fig.
80; if the bevel is on the inside, it is called an inside bevel, or inside ground, or scribing-gouge, or paring-gouge, Fig.

81.[3] [Footnote 3: Another confusing nomenclature (Goss) gives the name "inside gouges" to those with the cutting edge on the inside, and "outside gouges" to those with the cutting edge on the outside.] Carving tools are, properly speaking, all chisels, and are of different shapes for facility in carving.
For ordinary gouging, Fig.