CHAPTER VI.
POITIERS--BATTLES--THE ARMIES--KING JOHN OF FRANCE--THE YOUNG WARRIOR--HOTEL DU VREUX--AMPHITHEATRE--BLOSSAC--THE GREAT STONE--THE SCHOLARS--MUSEUM--THE DEMON'S STONE--GRANDE GUEULE.
POITIERS is a city of the past: it is one of those towns in which the last lingering characteristics of the middle ages still repose; although they do so in the midst of an atmosphere of innovation.

Modern improvement, slowly as it shows itself, is making progress at Poitiers, as at every town in France, and quietly sweeping away all the records of generations whose very memory is wearing out.

If new buildings and walks and ornamental _alentours_ were as quickly erected and carried out as they are conceived, it would be a matter of rejoicing that whole cities of dirt and wretchedness should be made to disappear, and new ones to rise shining in their place; but, unfortunately, this cannot be the case.

There are too many towns in France in the same position as Poitiers, all requiring to be rebuilt from the very ground to make them _presentable_ at the present day; blocks of stone strew every road, brick and mortar fill every street; a great deal of money is expended, but a great deal more is required; and, in the meantime, the new and the old strive for mastery, the former growing dull and dirty by the side of the latter, and, before the intended improvements are realized, becoming as little sightly as their more venerable neighbours.
Much of _old_ Poitiers has been destroyed; and _new_ Poitiers is by no means beautiful.

It is better, therefore, except in a few instances, to forget that modern hands have touched the sacred spot, and endeavour to enjoy the reminiscences still left, of which there are a great number full of interest and variety.
When we sallied forth into the streets of Poitiers, our first impression was that of disappointment; but we had not long wandered amongst its dilapidated houses and churches before the enthusiasm we expected to feel there was awakened, and the spirit of the Black Prince was appeased by our reverence for everything we met.
Poitiers belongs to so many ages--Gaul, Roman, Visigoth, Frank, English--that it holds a place in every great event which has occurred in France during the last nineteen centuries.