CHAPTER IX.
COARRAZE--ORTON--THE PONT LONG--LES BELLES CANTINIERES--MORLAAS--THE CURE--RESISTANCE TO IMPROVEMENT--UZAIN--LESCAR--REFORMATION IN NAVARRE--TOMBS--FRANCOIS PHOEBUS--THE MOTHER.
"A tres legues de Pau, a cap a las mountagnes Apres abe seguit gayhaventes[34] campagnes, Sus u Pic oun lou Gabe en gourgouils ba mouri Lou Castel de Coarraze aues oueils qu'es bien ouffri." WITHIN a pleasant drive of Pau is the Castle of Coarraze, where the youth of Henry IV.

was passed, under the guardianship of Suzanne de Bourbon-Busset, Barronne de Miossens.

Of this castle nothing now remains but one tower, on which may still be traced the motto, "_Lo que ha de ser non puede faltar_," from whence is a magnificent view _into_ the mountains.
Of the Castle of Coarraze, it will be seen that more marvellous things are told than that Henri Quatre passed much of his childhood there.
[Footnote 34: Smiling.] Froissart has immortalized it as the scene of one of his romances of Orthez; and this is the tale he tells of its lord: It seems, Count Gaston Phoebus had such early knowledge of every event, that his household could only account for the fact by supposing that he possessed some familiar spirit, who told him all that had happened in the country, far and near.

This was considered by no means unusual; and when Sir John Froissart expressed his surprise on the subject, a squire belonging to the count related to him a circumstance of a similar nature.
"It may be about twenty years ago," said he, "that there reigned, in this country, a baron, who was called Raymond, and who was Lord of Coarraze.

Now, Coarraze is a town and castle, about seven leagues from this town of Orthez.