At the Eaux Bonnes, our female attendant wore her red-peaked _capeline_ in the house, which had a singular effect, but was by no means pretty: indeed, the only impression it gives me is, that it is precisely the costume which seems to suit _a daunce o' witches_; and cannot by possibility be softened into anything in the least pleasing to the eye.

All the peasants I saw at different periods of the year had a remarkably slovenly, dirty, squalid appearance; and, except in the instance of one little girl of about thirteen, I saw none who had the slightest claim to beauty, or could excite interest for a moment.

There is a humble, civil air about the people in the Vallee d'Ossau, which propitiates one: the _berret_ is always taken off as a stranger passes, and a kind salutation uniformly given.

But, beyond this, there is nothing worthy of remark as respects the common people, who appear to be a simple race, content to work hard and live poorly.
Our guide pointed out to us a village, from the valley, perched up on a height in the midst of snows, where, he said, the inhabitants, who were all shepherds, _were very learned_.

"Not one of them," said he, "but can read and write; and, as they are always in the mountains with a book in their hands, and have nothing to interrupt their studies, they know a great deal, and are brave _gens_." Probably Gaston Saccaze the naturalist belongs to such a fraternity..