I rejoiced that, at the period of both my visits, we had the scenery all to ourselves, with no drawback of melancholy to spoil the satisfaction we experienced.
These waters were first used, it is said, by Henri II.

of Navarre, after his return from the fatal fight of Pavia, where he was wounded by a musketshot.

They, from hence, took the name of Eaux des Arquebusades, as they were found efficacious in cases similar to his own.
Michel Montaigne was one of the illustrious visitors to these healing springs, which he calls _Grammontoises_.
Jacques de Thou came to the Eaux Bonnes in 1582; and recounts that, in the week which he passed there, he drank twenty-five glasses of water a day; but in this he was exceeded by a German companion, who took no less them _fifty_.
These springs were forgotten for more than a century after this; and Bareges was preferred to them.

The great physician, Bordeu, of whom Bearn is justly proud, restored their reputation in a great measure: but it is rather within the last thirty years that they have reached the celebrity which they now enjoy.
It is generally said that the Vallee d'Ossau combines all the beauties and grandeurs of the Pyrenees; and that the traveller, who has only time to visit this part, has had a specimen of all that is most admirable in this beautiful chain of mountains.

For myself, I endeavour to believe this, not having been able to see so much of the Pyrenees as I desired..