CHAPTER VII.
GABAS--POPULAR SONGS--PONT CRABE--THE RECLUSE OF THE VALLEE D'OSSAU--MARGUERITE--THE SPRINGS.
I made another excursion to the Vallee d'Ossau in the February of 1843, when the weather was singularly mild--infinitely more so than when I was first there in October, and the clearness of the sky enabled me to see all the mountains which were before concealed in clouds.

With an adventurous party, all anxious to take advantage of the propitious moment, I undertook a long _walk_--for at this season it is difficult to procure horses--towards Gabas, having this time the Pic du Midi bright and clear and close in view.

The carriage was able to advance along the steep road which extends above the foaming Gave de Gabas, nearly half way to the desired spot; for the snow had fallen in very small quantity during the winter, and there had been no interruption to the roads.
From a certain place, however, where two paths diverged, we found that the height we had reached had brought us to the snows, and that it was too slippery for the horses to proceed; accordingly we alighted and performed the rest of the journey on foot.

The walk was very exciting and amusing, our feet sinking deep in snow at every step, while a burning sun, _gauemas_, as the guide said, was shining over our heads, glittering on the white peaks above, and sparkling in the deep, clear, green torrent at the foot of the box-covered hills, over which silver streams of water were flowing from the summits into the murmuring wave, which churlishly received their tributary visits, and disputed the place they took, dashing, foaming, and springing over the enormous masses of rock in their course, till all the valley re-echoed with their ceaseless quarrelling.
Every now and then we stopped to look back at the sublime scenery, and to make a hasty sketch of the peaks, which tempted us to pause.

Summer and winter seemed combined in our stroll, and it appeared as if we were realizing the fable of "_the man, the sun, and the cloud_," not knowing whether to yield to the heat or the cold.