The landlady of the inn--who came from Bordeaux--with a mysterious wink, assured us we should find all the common people the same--"_Ces Bearnais sont tous brutals!_" was her remark; but we did not find her in the right.
The Gascon character, though here a little softened, prevails a good deal, as the continued boasting about their town proves, and a certain pomposity in their demeanour, which, however, is harmless and amusing.
We were in the habit of employing a baker, who made what was called English bread, and the magnificent manner in which he paid his visits to our domicile was very comic.

Our maid, Jeannotte, being out of the way, we were one day disturbed by a vociferous knocking at our parlour-door--for in general all the passage-doors are left open--and hurrying to admit the clamorous visitant, we beheld the baker's assistant, M.Auguste, with a tray of loaves on his head and one in his hand, which he thrust forth, accompanying the action with a flourish and a low bow, exclaiming, "De la part de Cesar!" We were not then aware that such was the name of our baker, and were much awed by the announcement.
Another of our domestic visitors was a source of considerable entertainment to us, and became still more so through the _espieglerie_ of our attendant, Jeannotte, who took occasion to mystify him at our expense.

This object of mirth was a little stout mountaineer, who came every week from his home in the mountains--between the valleys of Ossau and Aspe--with a load of butter and cheese, with which his strong, sure-footed horse was furnished.

In the severest weather this little man would set out; and on one occasion his horse had to be dug out of the snow in one of the passes; but the desire of gain, which invariably actuates these people, and a carelessness of hardship, made him treat all his dangers lightly.

He was in the habit of coming to us every week, and generally made his way to our part of the house, as he appeared amused to _look at us_ as much as we were to converse with him, and ask him questions about bears, wolves, and avalanches.
His stock of French was small, and he had a peremptory way of demanding what he required, as he divided his neat pieces of butter for our service.