[Barn and the Pyrenees by Louisa Stuart Costello]@TWC D-Link bookBarn and the Pyrenees CHAPTER XV 6/21
The antique buildings, so curious from their history, have, in spite of repeated wars and the efforts of time, preserved a great deal of their original appearance, and some of them are as fine as any to be found in France.
Amongst these, is the Portal of St.Seurin, and the facade of St.Michel and St.Andre. Bordeaux is a city which seems to belong to two periods, totally unlike each other.
The old town, full of old houses--one of which, called _Le Bahutier_, is a specimen of others--is an historical monument of the Middle Ages, while the new is an epitome of La Jeune France, with all its ambitious aspirations, its grand conceptions, and its failures. There is no attempt, in the restoration of French towns in general, to bring the new style as near the old as possible; on the contrary, it would seem that modern architects were only glad of the vicinity of antique fabrics, in order that they might show how superior was their own skill, and how far they could deviate from the original model.
In Bordeaux, this is very striking.
It appears as if the new city ought to have been built by itself on another site, leaving the gloomy recesses of the ancient city to themselves, for all that now surrounds it is incongruous and inharmonious. Taken by itself, modern Bordeaux is to be admired; but, backed and flanked as it is by a dense mass of blackened buildings belonging to another age, it is singularly out of keeping. All the way from the great square of the Quinconces, with its Rostral pillars, to the port of Bacalan, a series of wide quays border the broad river; the Quai des Chartrons is considered one of the finest in France, and, for commercial purposes, no doubt is so.
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