The splendid theatre stands in one corner of a great space, from which several wide streets diverge: some old and dark, some new.

The best street, the Rue du Chapeau Rouge, which is of great width, runs along on one side; it is short, but continued, with another name, across the Place, and leads from one end of this part of the town to the other.

There is a good deal of foot-pavement in this street, and here are the smartest shops; but, compared with Paris or London, or any great English town, they are contemptible.
The fine Allees de Tourny traverse the town in the form of a star, and the rays meet in a great square,--the Place Dauphine--which, if cleaner and less neglected, would be extremely magnificent.

The Place Tourny and the Place Richelieu are also fine openings; and there are said to be no less than forty public squares altogether, which must give a good circulation to the air in most parts.
The old town is, however, close, dirty, damp and dingy, beyond all others that I have ever seen, and, in common with all the _new_ part of Bordeaux, the worst paved, perhaps, of any in France.

Here it is crowded enough, and forms a singular contrast with the deserted appearance of the gigantic squares in the sister town.
Nevertheless, although I am by no means able to agree in attributing extraordinary beauty to Bordeaux, there is no denying that there is much to be astonished at in its magnitude, and to congratulate its inhabitants upon, in the facilities afforded them of enjoying the air in streets which would be shady, from the trees on each side, if they were not so wide; in alleys and walks apparently interminable, where the whole population can promenade, if they please, without appearing crowded; in squares where they may lose themselves; and the most magnificent theatre in Europe, which they generally neglect for several smaller in other parts of the town.
Still it appears to me impossible to forget that Bordeaux is built on a marsh, and is surrounded by immense marshes, for leagues; and that, go out of it which way you will, there is no fine country nor any agreeable views.