CHAPTER XII.
ROCHEFORT--THE CURIOUS BONNE--AMERICANISMS--CONVICTS--THE CHARENTE--"TULIPES"-- TAILLEBOURG--HENRY THE THIRD--ST.
LOUIS--FALSE SECURITY--ROMEGOUX--PUYTAILLE.
OUR good fortune in respect to the weather, which we so much enjoyed at La Rochelle, seemed to have taken leave of us when we quitted that charming town and took our way southward.

It rained in torrents when we got into the diligence for Rochefort, and continued to do so throughout our journey.

The country is very flat for several leagues, and possesses no remarkable beauties; occasionally a turn of the road brought us close to the sea-shore; and its fine waves, dashing against the shingles, made music to our ears, and we regretted leaving it behind us.

The sea seems always to me like a friend; it offers, besides, a means of escape; it appears to tell one that a vessel is ready to take the tired wanderer back to England: there is something like _home_ in its vicinity, and I can well imagine with what sensations an exile might "come to the beach," and sigh forth his soul towards his native land.

But that I had interests still greater awaiting me at Bordeaux, I should have been even more sorry to have quitted this coast; and every time we caught another glimpse of the waves, we hailed them with pleasure.
We arrived at Rochefort, as we had frequently done at other towns in France--where the climate is supposed to be better than our own--in pouring rain; but, this time, with a little difference, inasmuch as the diligence stopped in the midst of a large square outside the town, planted with trees, with hotels in different directions, and the bureau within twenty yards: nevertheless, the conducteur's pleasure was to stop his horses exactly midway between us and shelter: all the doors were thrown open, the horses were taken off, and the passengers were free to get out and paddle to the nearest inn as best they might.