Girls and women, in wooden shoes, were sitting about in a slovenly yard before it, and we were welcomed as guests by one who got chairs and placed them in sight of the farm-yard wonders for our accommodation: after which she disappeared with our hostess to show the washing establishment, which we declined visiting, in spite of repeated invitations, given with all the _bonhommie_ in the world, as if there had really been anything to see but dirty water and soap-suds.

We comprehended, afterwards, as we sat musing in the farm-yard, watching the vagaries of some angry turkeys, whose combs became perfectly white with passion, as they contended with their fellows, that the reason of so much pride and admiration on the part of our hostess and the mistress of the _Chateau_ de La Font was, that the washing here was carried on _under cover_; whereas, that operation usually takes place by the side of rivers and brooks, in the open face of nature, without hot water or tubs.

No wonder that our apathy annoyed the parties, who had so just a reason to "be vaunty" of so expensive an establishment! This, then, is all that remains of the castle of La Font, once a place so contended for during the numerous sieges, and which the Duke of Anjou, afterwards Henry III., took possession of, when he ordered his soldiers to destroy all the fountains which supplied the besieged town of La Rochelle with water.

On this spot, where Protestants and Catholics fought deadly battles, and disputed every inch of ground, the battle of a couple of turkeys, and the splashing and thumping of a group of washerwomen, were all that existed to interest the beholder.
We walked round the towers and into the field at the back, but scarcely a bit of old wall repaid our trouble; and finding that the subject of washing became all engrossing to our hostess, who seemed to have forgotten that the hotel of the Three Candlesticks and its dinner-hour had existence, we rose and left the party, directing our way back to the town.
We had managed to make our escape quietly, but our defection once perceived, consternation ensued, and the departure of La Noue from the Protestant camp could scarcely have created more sensation.

We were pursued, and accompanied home to the hotel, with repeated apologies for having been allowed to remain alone until we became _ennuyees_; and so persecuted were we with politeness, that we were not sorry to take refuge in the solemn _salle-a-manger_, where, though nearly two hours past dinner-time, we found no preparations yet on foot for our relief.
It was impossible, considering the well-meant intention of our hostess, to be angry at anything; but, without exception, the whole arrangement at this most unique of all inns, was the least comfortable that any unfortunate traveller ever had to put up with.