They make large collections of minerals, birds, &c.; they bring with them numerous presents, sometimes of considerable value, which they distribute among the dignitaries; they are, moreover, the projectors of many an entertainment, and even of many a little ball, &c.; they buy up every thing they can procure for their cabinets, and they always travel in company; they have much baggage with them, and consequently require many horses, which cannot be hired in Iceland, but must be bought.

On such occasions every one here is a dealer: offers of horses and cabinets pour in on all sides.
The most welcome arrival of all is that of the French frigate, which visits Iceland every year; for sometimes there are _dejeuners a la fourchette_ on board, sometimes little evening parties and balls.

There is at least something to be got besides the rich presents; the "Stiftsamtmann" even receives 600 florins per annum from the French government to defray the expense of a few return balls which he gives to the naval officers.
With me this was not the case: I gave no parties--I brought no presents--they had nothing to expect from me; and therefore they left me to myself.

{28} For this reason I affirm that he only can judge of the character of a people who comes among them without claim to their attention, and from whom they have nothing to expect.

To such a person only do they appear in their true colours, because they do not find it worth while to dissemble and wear a mask in his presence.