But the dishonoured dogs round here forget old compacts, and want us to pay taxes like mere fellahin.' We sat up talking far into the night, while the storm raged without, and the rain and the sea-spray pounded on the shutters; and never have I met with kinder treatment.

It was the custom for chance comers to have food at evening only and leave betimes next morning.

But our host, when I awoke in splendid sunlight, had breakfast ready--sour milk and Arab bread and fragrant coffee--and when I went out to my horse he followed me, and thrust two roasted fowls into my saddle-bags, exclaiming 'Zad!'-- which means 'food for the road.' And much to my abashment he and the old man fell upon my neck and kissed me on both cheeks.
'Good people! The very best of people! They would take no money.

God reward them,' chanted Rashid, as we rode out of the ruins inland through a garden of wild flowers.

The storm had passed completely.