A MOUNTAIN GARRISON The long day's ride was uneventful, but not so the night.

I spent it in a village of the mountains at a very curious hostelry, kept by a fat native Christian, named Elias, who laid claim, upon the signboard, to furnish food and lodging 'alafranga'-- that is, in the modern European manner.

There was one large guest-room, and an adjoining bedroom of the same dimensions, for some thirty travellers.

I had to find a stable for my horse elsewhere.

A dining-table was provided, and we sat on chairs around it; but the food was no wise European, and the cooking was degraded Greek.