Many carry foreign flags, by which they are exempt from the Chinese likin duties, so capricious in their imposition, and pay instead a general five per cent.

_ad valorem_ duty on their cargoes, which is levied by the Imperial Maritime Customs, and collected either in Chungking or Ichang.

From one to the other, with boathooks and paddle, we crept past the outer wings of their balanced rudders till we reached the landing place.

On the rocks at the landing a bevy of women were washing, beating their hardy garments with wooden flappers against the stones; but they ceased their work as the foreign devil, in his uncouth garb, stepped ashore in their midst.

Wanhsien is not friendly to foreigners in foreign garb.