H., assistant commissioner of customs, Chungking, 51 Cash currency of China, 161, 162 Chairen, the policeman of China, 77, 190 Chang-chen Nien, Brigadier-General, Tengyueh, 181, 246 Chang Chi Tung, the viceroy, 3, 4 Chang-show-hsien, 33 Chang Yan Miun, the giant of Yunnan, 184, 185 Chaochow, 200 Chaotong, the city of, 97-116; its converts, 178 Chehki, 137 Ch'en, merchant prince, 29, 30 Chennan-chow, 192 Chentu, city, 62; river, 62 Chiang, telegraph clerk, Yunnan, 168 China Inland Mission, in Hankow, 6; in Wanhsien, 27-29; in Chungking, 49; in Suifu, 65, 73, 75; in Yunnan, 177; in Tali, 213-216; results in Yunnan province, 178; in China generally, 180; its teaching, 65-71 Chinese, in Australia, 222-224; in Burma, 288-290 Chinese, avarice, 79; benevolence, 29; beauty of women, 13; cards, visiting, 181, 182; characters, reverence for, 170; courtesy, 255; desire to have children, 197, 198; etiquette, 230; friendliness, 140; good nature, 117; gratitude, 27, 28; inaccuracy, 99; indifference to pain, 104, to sound, 74, 169; irreverence, 195; justification by works, 169; kindness to children, 113, 290; laughter, 195; love at first sight, 153-155; politeness, 196, 197, 201, 255; respect for old age, 117, 198; thoughtfulness, 189; true felicity, 180; wonderful memory, 167, 168 Chipatzu, 22 Chueh, telegraph operator and interpreter, 248 Chungking, city of, 34-39 Chuhsing-fu, 187 Clarke, Mr.G.W., missionary traveller, 213 Clarke, Marcus, cited, 210 Coal on the Yangtse, 32 Coffins in China, 92, 137, 265 Colquhoun, A.R., in Yunnan, 150 Conversion, instances of rapid, 179 Converts, in China, 5; Wanhsien, 28; Chungking, 49; Suifu, 65; Chaotong, 99; Tongchuan, 121; Yunnan City, 177; Yunnan Province, 178, 179; Talifu, 214 Cooke, G.W., cited, 46, 176 Coolies' enormous loads, 90, 91 Couchman, Major, cited, 274; in Rangoon, 288 Crockery, 118, 119 Customs, China Inland (likin-barriers), 21, 48, 97, 118, 242, 272, 277 Customs, Imperial Maritime, 13, 25, 35-38 Davenport, Dr.Cecil, medical missionary, Chungking, 49 Davies, Capt.

H.R., Bhamo, 285 Davis, Sir J.F., cited, 57 Dedeken, Pere, of Kuldja, 150 De Gorostarza, Pere, Provicaire in Yunnan, 172 De Guignes, cited, 140 Distances in China, 141, 278 Doctors in China, 107-110; mule-doctor, 145 Doolittle, Rev.Justus, cited, 69, 130, 170 Doudart de la Gree, in Yunnan, 149 Douglas, R.K., cited, 127 Dudgeon, Dr.J., cited, 112, 130 Du Halde, cited, 90, 108, 176 Dymond, Rev.Frank, missionary, Chaotong, 98, 99 Eclipse of the Sun, 125, 126 Edkins, Rev.Dr.J., cited, 130 Eitel, Rev.Dr.E.J., cited, 129 Excoffier, Pere, of Yunnan, 146 Famine in Chaotong, 99; in Tongchuan, 127; on the way to Yunnan, 137-144 Fan-yien-tsen, 82 Farrar, Ven.

Archdeacon, cited, 191 Feng-hsiang, Gorge, 21, 30 Fengshui-ling, 240 Feng-tu-hsien, 33 Fenouil, Monseigneur, of Yunnan, 171, 172 Fraser, Consul E.H., Chungking, 45 Fuchou, 33 _Fungshui_, 157, 175 Fung-yen-tung, 205 Fu-to-kuan, fort of, 52 Ganai, Shan town, 254-256 Gates of a Chinese city, 174 Geary, H.Grattan, cited, 43 Giles, H.A., cited, 129 Gill, Mr.Hope, missionary, Wanhsien, 27 Gill, Capt.

W., cited, 17, 90 Girls in China, 13, 14, 139, 140; bought, 155; sold, 100, 101; price of, 100 Goitre, 101, 145, 155, 185; its prevalence, 227, 228 Gold, on the Yangtse, 23; in Yunnan, 158-160 Graham, Mr., missionary, Yunnan, 177, 219 Grosvenor Mission in Yunnan, 149 Guinness, Miss G., cited, 213 Haas, M., 42-44 Hankow, the city of, 3-8 Hanyang, 3 Heads of criminals, 192; of dacoits, 273, 274 Hirth, Dr.F., Commissioner of Customs, 40 Hobson, H.E., cited, 31 Hokiangpu, 222 Hongmuho, 270, 275-277 Hosie, A.M., cited, 17; in Yunnan, 149 Hsiakwan, 200, 219, 221 Hsintan rapids, 15 Huanglien-pu, 226; goitre at, 228 Huc, Abbe, cited, 176 Iangkai, 144 Ichang, 9 Infanticide in China, 129, 130; in Chaotong, 101; in Tongchuan, 129 Inquirers at Wanhsien, 28; Yunnan, 177; Tali, 215 Iremonger, Capt.

R.G., Nampoung, 275 Jensen, Mr.C., in Yunnan, 147; experiences in China, 156, 157; on distances, 187; to construct line to Burma, 238 Jesuit Missionaries in China, 123, 173, 176 John, Rev.Dr.Griffith, cited, 130 Kachins ("protected barbarians"), 254, 259, 270, 273, 274 Kanhliang, Shan chief, 245 Kaw Hong Beng, Private Secretary to Viceroy, 4, 5 Kiangti, 117 Kong-shan, 141 Kueichow on the Yangtse, 18 Kuhtsing, its converts, 178 Kung Chao-yuan, Minister to Great Britain, 73 Kung-t'-an-ho, 33 Kweichou-fu, 21 Lacouperie, Terrien de, cited, 257 Lanchihsien, 60 Laokai, 148, 159 Laowatan river, 79; town, 85 Lay, G.T., cited, 13, 45 Leitoupo, 139 Lenz, F.G., in Yunnan, 150, 151 Li Han Chang, in Yunnan, 149 Li Hung Chang, 72, 149; on opium, 46, 190 _Ling chi_, 69, 231, 232 Li Pi Chang, Telegraph Manager, Yunnan, 151-153, 181, 184 Li-Sieh-tai, of Tengyueh, 246 Little, A.J., cited, 13, 122; in Chungking, 51 Little river, 40, 44, 52 Liu, Colonel, of Chinese Boundary Commission, 244, 245, 255 Liu, the Viceroy, 72 Lockhart, Dr.W., cited, 28, 130 Loh-Ta-Jen, Chentai at Ichang, 9 London Missionary Society, Hankow, 6; Chungking, 49 Lorain, Pere, Procureur in Chungking, 50 Luchow, 60 Lu-feng-hsien, 186 Luho, 187 MacCarthy, Justin, cited, 210 MacGowan, Rev.Dr.D.J., cited, 130 Maire, Pere, of Tongchuan, 133 Mander, S.S., cited, 47, 191 Manyuen (Manwyne), 264-269 Marco Polo, cited, 238; in Yunnan, 149 Margary, A.R., cited, 266; in Yunnan, 149, 246; his murder, 264-269 Marks, Rev.Dr.J.E., 289, 290 Martin, Rev.Dr.W.A.P., cited, 67, 170 Martini, M.( D.S.P.), in Bhamo, 285 Mason, Rev.G.L., cited, 28 Mateer, Rev.C.W., cited, 28, 140 Meadows, T.T., cited, 113, 154 Medhurst, Rev.W.H., cited, 87 (wrongly written "Meadows"), 197 Medhurst, Sir W.H., cited, 5, 45, 108 Medicines in China, 83, 107-110 Mekong river, 221, 233, 234 Mencius, cited, 198 Methodist Episcopalian Mission, 40, 54 Michie, A., cited, 124 Missionaries, success in China, 5; numbers in Hankow, 6 Missions Etrangeres de Paris, 6, 64, 65, 105, 122, 146, 171 Mi Tsang Gorge, 17 Mohammedans, and opium, 112; in Chaotong, 113, 114; near Tongchuan, 128; in Tali, 216; insurrection, 145, 185, 187, 203; superiority, 216; the milkman, 217 Momien (Tengyueh), the city of, 243-249 Money, changing, 95; remittance of, 95 Morgan, C.L., cited, 66, 70 Morphia, imported, 48, 49 Moule, Bishop, cited, 130 Moutot, Pere, Provicaire in Suifu, 63, 65 Muirhead, Rev.W., cited, 123 Mungtze, 148-150, 159 Myothit (Santien), 278, 279 Nampoung, encampment, 270, 275-278 Nantien, fort of, 250, 251 Opium, imports and exports of, 46-48; in Hankow, 3; in Chungking, 45; in Suifu, 72, 73; demoralising influence of, 41; -- -- refuge, Chungking, 41; -- -- ports, 33; poisoning by, 111, 112, 212; my chairbearers and, 94; my coolie and, 219; appeal for suppression, 190, 191 d'Orleans, Prince Henri, cited, 148; in Yunnan, 149 Parricide in China, 69 Pearson, Prof.C.H., cited, 186, 224 _Peking Gazette_, cited, 53, 169, 231 Pen, telegraph manager, Tengyueh, 244 Peng Yue-lin, high commissioner, cited, 192 Pidgin-English, 3, 9, 18 Piercy, Rev.G., cited, 191 Ping-shan-pa, 13 Pits for the dead, 133 Plague, bubonic, in Yunnan, 213 Pollard, Rev.S., missionary, Tongchuan, 121 Poppy, 37, 57, 78, 84, 118, 142; surreptitiously grown, 46 Post-offices, 95, 96 Prisons in China, 209-211 Punishments in China, 103, 104, 136, 239 Pupeng, 193 Pupiao, 236; my men die at, 281 Reade, Charles, cited, 209 Reed, Miss M., cited, 191 Reid, Rev.G., cited, 41, 192 "Rice Christians," 6 Roberts, Rev.Mr., missionary, Bhamo, 286 Rockhill, W.W., cited, 280, 281 St.Thomas, visit to Suifu, 65 Salween river, 237-240 Santa, Shan town, 259-263 Schehleh, 272, 277 Scott, J.G., cited, 287, 289 Sengki-ping, 84 Settee, fort of, 274, 275 Shachiaokai, 192 Shang-kwan, 204 Shans, 240, 252, 254, 256-269 Shih-pao-chai, 32 Shuichai, 234 Shweli river, 242 Silver in Yunnan, 161, 163; in Tengyueh, 249 Singai (Bhamo), 218 Sladen, Major, 267 Small feet, 14, 101, 153 Small-pox, 212, 213 Smith, Rev.A.H., cited, 41, 269 Smith, Rev.John, missionary, Talifu, 202, 209, 214, 219 Smith, Mr.Stanley P., his rapid conversion of a Chinaman, 279 Soldiers, their weapons, 234, 241, 249; fierceness of aspect, 263; courage, 271 "Squeezing" in China, 151, 152 Stead, W.T., cited, 152 Suicide by opium, 111; land of, 111, 112 Suifu, the city of, 62-75 Sutherland, Rev.Dr.A., cited, 123, 173 Swinburne, A.C., cited, 14 Szechuen, "country of the clouds," 82; population, 186; contrasted with Yunnan, 85-88; Catholic stronghold, 64 Taipingkai, Shan town, 263 Taiping-pu, 226 Taiping river, 246, 250, 252, 258, 278, 279 Tak-wan-hsien, 92, 94, 96 Tak-wan-leo, 92 Talichao, 234 Talifu, the city of, 202-219; its converts, 178 Tanto, 82 Taoshakwan, 86 Tao[=u]en, 116 Tawantzu, 92 Taylor, Rev.Dr.J.Hudson, cited, 46, 67, 68, 70, 179; on opium, 46; on ancestral worship, 67; Chinese in lake of fire, 67, 68 Tchih-li-pu, 86 Telegraph, in Yunnan, 147; in Tali, 208; in Yungchang, 234; in Tengyueh, 243-248; system of telegraphing Chinese characters, 166-168; telegraphic transfers, 95, 159 Tengyueh (Momien), the city of, 243-249 "Term question," 122, 123 Theatre in Tengyueh, 246, 247 Tomme, M., in Yunnan, 150 Tongchuan, the city of, 120-134; its converts, 178 Tonquin, 148, 149 Tragedy of the Tali valley, 220, 221 Tremberth, Rev.Mr., missionary, Chaotong, 101 Tsen Yue-ying, the cruel Viceroy, 267 Tung-lo-hsia, 35 Turner, Rev.F.Storrs, cited, 46 Tu Wen Hsiu, the Mohammedan Sultan, 203 Ullathorne, Bishop, cited, 210 Vial, Pere, of Yunnan, 150 Voltaire, cited, 173 Von Richthofen, cited, 90 Wanhsien, the city of, 24-31 Warren, Consul Pelham, of Hankow, 8 Warry, Mr., Chinese adviser to the Burmese Government, 229, 261, 285 Wherry, Rev.J., cited, 123 Widows, virtuous, 52, 53, 78 Williams, Rev.Dr.S.Wells, cited, 47, 110, 126, 197, 267 Williamson, Rev.Dr.A.W., cited, 70, 223 Wong, banker in Yunnan, 163-166 Wong-wen-shao, the Viceroy, 180, 181 Woodin, Rev.S.F., cited, 66, 179 Woolston, Miss S.H., cited, 14 Wuchang, 3 Wuntho Sawbwa, 245, 253, 254 Wushan Gorge, 20 Wushan-hsien, 20 Yangki river, 221 "_Yang kweitze_", 18, 25, 228, 229 Yanglin, 145 Yangpi, 224 Yang Yu-ko, Imperialist general, 203, 204 Yeh, of the Chinese Boundary Commission, 224 Yehtan rapid, 19 Yenwanshan, 193 Ying-wu-kwan, 193 Yuenchuan, 60 Yungchang, the city of, 234, 235 Yunnan, the city of, 147-183; its converts, 177; the province of, 85-88; its converts, 178 Yunnanhsien, 196 Yunnan Yeh, 193 [Illustration: ROUGH SKETCH-MAP OF CHINA AND BURMA SHOWING AUTHOR'S ROUTE FROM SHANGHAI TO RANGOON.] * * * * * +------------------------------------------------------------+ | Typographical errors corrected in text: | | | | Page vii: Hankow replaced with Ichang in chapter title | | Page ix: Teng-yueh replaced with Tengyueh | | Page 8: "My Chinese Passport" replaced with "The | | Author's Chinese Passport" | | Page 9: Kweichou replaced with Kweichow | | Page 22: Kueichou replaced with Kweichou | | Page 29: mid-day replaced with midday; mission replaced | | with missionary | | Page 30: Kueichou replaced with Kweichou | | Page 32: hill-sides replaced with hillsides | | Page 33: tow-line replaced with towline | | Page 34: Tung-to-hsia replaced with Tung-lo-hsia | | Page 44: Chung-king replaced with Chungking | | Page 47: Fuh-kien replaced with Fuhkien | | Page 57: rape seed replaced with rape-seed | | Page 58: mainroad replaced with main road | | Page 61: Comma after "Chinese, who," removed | | Page 62: tow-rope replaced with towrope | | Page 63: Tali-fu replaced with Talifu | | Page 64: trop materialistes italicised | | Page 69: ling-chi replaced with Ling chi | | Page 76: Semi-colon following Chaotong replaced with | | comma | | Page 77: Takwan-hsien replaced with Tak-wan-hsien, twice | | Page 78: Comma after "yellow rape-seed" removed; | | half-penny replaced with halfpenny | | Page 91: Chen-tu replaced with Chentu | | Page 96: ill paved replaced with ill-paved | | Page 97: Semi-colon following Chaotong replaced with | | comma | | Page 105: Etrangeres replaced with Etrangeres | | Page 111: trival replaced with trivial | | Page 118: main-road replaced with main road | | Page 125: Semi-colon after Tongchuan replaced with comma | | Page 139: Comma after "other heathen country" replaced | | with full stop | | Page 142: Kongshan replaced with Kong-shan | | Page 149: Chung-king corrected to Chungking | | Page 150: Yesutang replaced with Yesu-tang | | Page 154: Double quotes inside double quotes replaced with | | single quotes (single quotes used for the last | | reported speech in the story) | | Page 155: Single quote after "pretty safe" added; | | thick-neck replaced with thickneck | | Page 156: Momein replaced with Momien | | Page 161: uncivilized and civilization replaced with | | uncivilised and civilisation | | Page 162: Mexican Dollar replaced with Mexican dollar | | Page 164: Chung-king replaced with Chungking | | Page 172: Muntze replaced with Mungtze | | Page 184: Tong-chuan replaced with Tongchuan | | Page 186: Tai-ping replaced with Taiping | | Page 190: Full stop added after "in rags and barefoot" | | Page 192: Tali replaced with Talifu | | Page 193: a'accord replaced with d'accord | | Page 197: Question mark after "...that of a doctor ?" | | replaced with full stop | | Page 199: mid-day replaced with midday | | Page 200: Yunnen replaced with Yunnan | | Page 204: Hsia-kwan replaced with Hsiakwan, twice | | Page 206: Commas added after "we replied" and "(you to go | | on)" | | Page 208: Mahommedan replaced with Mohammedan | | Page 219: Yung-chang replaced with Yungchang | | Page 220: Tali-fu replaced with Talifu | | Page 230: splended replaced with splendid | | Page 233: Full stop removed after Rivers; tea house | | replaced with teahouse | | Page 236: inn-keeper replaced with innkeeper | | Page 238: Laotseng replaced with Laotseng | | Page 246: Yung-chang replaced with Yungchang; "and other" | | replaced with "and another" | | Page 249: Yunnaness replaced with Yunnanese | | Page 259: Liliputians replaced with Lilliputians | | Page 270: Full stops after Power and Kachins removed | | Page 294: Chunking replaced with Chungking | | Page 295: Fenghsiang replaced with Feng-hsiang | | Page 296: Lingchi replaced with Ling chi | | Page 298: Subtopics under entry "Soldiers" separated with | | semi-colons | | | | Inconsistent capitalisations between the Table of | | Contents and individual chapter titles have been retained.