James Walsham had been working with the fishermen in saving those already brought to shore.

He now fastened the end of a line round his body.
"You can never get through those rollers--they will break you up like an eggshell," the old fisherman shouted.
"I will dive through them," Jim shouted back.

"Give me plenty of slack, and don't pull, till you see I have got him." The lad waited for his opportunity, and then, rushing down after the sheet of white foam, he stood, waist deep, as a great wave, some twelve feet high, towered up like a wall towards him.

It was just going to break, when James plunged, head foremost, into it.

There was a crash which shook the earth, a mass of wildly rushing foam, and then, some ten yards beyond the spot where the wave had broken, Jim's head appeared above the surface.