[Rome in 1860 by Edward Dicey]@TWC D-Link bookRome in 1860 CHAPTER I 10/20
There is a Gravesend-looking steamer too, lying off the quay, but she belongs to the French government, and is employed to carry troops to and from Civita Vecchia.
This is all, and at this point all traffic on the Tiber ceases. Though the river is navigable for a long distance above Rome, yet beyond the bridge, now in sight, not a boat is to be seen except at rare intervals.
It is the Tiber surely, and not the Thames, which should be called the "silent highway." A few steps more and the walls on either side are replaced by houses, and the city has begun.
The houses do not improve on a closer acquaintance; one and all look as if commenced on too grand a scale, they had ruined their builders before their completion, had been left standing empty for years, and were now occupied by tenants too poor to keep them from decay. There are holes in the wall where the scaffolding was fixed, large blotches where the plaster has peeled away; stones and cornices which have been left unused lie in the mud before the doors.
From the window- sills and from ropes fastened across the streets flutter half-washed rags and strange apparel.
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