It is a restaurant of the old style, a survival of the days when all Bohemian restaurants were Italian.

La Signora says they have been there, just there on Third Street, for twenty years.

If you are a newcomer you will probably eat in the upstairs room, in cool and rather remote grandeur, and the pretty daughter with the wondrous black eyes will serve you the more elaborate of the most extraordinarily named dishes on the menu.

But if, by long experience, you know what is pleasant and comfortable you will take a place in the basement cafe.

At the clean, bare table, in the shadow of the big, bright, many-bottled bar, you will eat your _Risotta alla Milanese_, your _coteletti di Vitelle_, your _asparagi_--it's probably the only place in the city where they serve asparagus with grated cheese--finally your _zambaione_,--a heavenly sort of hot "flip," very foamy and seductive and strongly flavoured with Marsarla wine.
If you stand well with the house you may have the honour to be escorted by the Signora herself--handsome, dignified, genial, with a veritable coronal of splendid grey hair--to watch the eternal bowling in the alley back of the restaurant.