14/26 How Florian's early patrons looked one can see in a brilliant little picture by Guardi in the National Gallery, No.2099.The cafe boasts that its doors are never shut, day or night; and I have no doubt that this is true, but I have never tested it in the small hours. The visitor to Venice, as a rule, eats in his hotel; and I think he is wise. But wishing to be in Venice rather more thoroughly than that, I once lived in rooms for a month and ate in all the restaurants in turn. Having had this experience I expect to be believed when I say that the restaurants of Venice are not good. The food is monotonous, and the waiting, even at what is called the best, the Bauer-Gruenwald, say, or the Pilsen, is leisurely. |