CHAPTER IV.
THE PIAZZA AND THE CAMPANILE The heart of Venice--Old-fashioned music--Teutonic invaders--The honeymooners--True republicanism--A city of the poor--The black shawls--A brief triumph--Red hair--A band-night incident--The pigeons of the Piazza--The two Procuratie--A royal palace--The shopkeepers--Florian's--Great names--Venetian restaurants--Little fish--The old campanile--A noble resolve--The new campanile--The angel vane--The rival campanili--The welcome lift--The bells--Venice from the Campanile.
S.Mark's Square, or the Piazza, is more than the centre of Venice: to a large extent it is Venice.

Good Venetians when they die flit evermore among its arcades.
No other city has so representative a heart.

On the four musical nights here--afternoons in the winter--the Piazza draws like a magnet.

That every stranger is here, you may be sure, and most Venetian men.

Some sit outside Florian's and the other cafes; others walk round and round the bandstand; others pause fascinated beside the musicians.