Not only the French strugglers, but American artists and authors in embryo used to dine there substantially and economically.

As Mr.Rideing described it: "The floor is sanded, and the little tables are covered with oil-cloth, each having a pewter cruet in the centre.

A placard flutters from the wall, announcing a grand festival, banquet, ball, and artistic tombola in celebration of the eighth anniversary of the bloody revolution of March 18, 1871, under the auspices of the 'Societe des Refugies de la Commune'-- 'Family tickets, twenty-five cents, hat-room checks, ten cents'-- from which we gather that the 'Restaurant du Grand Vatel' has some queer patrons.

The landlady sits behind a little desk in the corner.

She is a woman of enormous girth, with short petticoats which reveal her thick, white woolen socks; her complexion is dark, her eyes are black and deep, and large golden rings dangle from her ears." The regular patrons begin to come in.