CHAPTER I.
Preparations for the Start--Our Dry Goods Relished by the Cattle--I Become a "Compadre"-- Beautiful Northern Sonora--Mexican Muleteers Preferable in Their Own Country--Apache Stories--Signs of Ancient Inhabitants--Arrival at Upper Yaqui River--Opata Indians now Mexicanised--A Flourishing Medical Practice--Mexican Manners--Rock-carvings--How Certain Cacti Propagate, Pages 1-16 CHAPTER II A Remarkable Antique Piece--A New Species of Century Plant--Arrival at Nacori, at the Foot of the Sierra Madre--Trincheras--A Mammoth Tusk Secured--Climbing the Sierra Madre--A New Squirrel Discovered--Solitude--Apache Monuments--Arrival at Upper Bavispe River, Pages 17-40 CHAPTER III Camping at Upper Bavispe River--Low Stone Cabins, Fortresses, and Other Remains Indicating Former Habitation--The Animals Starve on the Winter Grass of the Sierra and Begin to Give Out--A Deserted Apache Camp--comfort at Last--The Giant Woodpecker--We Arrive at the Mormon Settlements of Pacheco and Cave Valley, Pages 41-59 CHAPTER IV A Splendid Field Prepared for Us by the Ancient Agriculturists of Cave Valley--House Groups in Caves Along a Pretty Stream--Well-preserved Mummies Found in Caves--More Trincheras--Our Excavations in Caves and Mounds Confirm to the Mormons their Sacred Stories--We Move to the Plains of San Diego--Visit to Casas Grandes and the Watch-tower--Successful Excavations of the Mounds near San Diego, Pages 60-98 CHAPTER V Second Expedition--Return to the Sierra--Parrots in the Snow--Cave-dwellings at Garabato, the most Beautiful in Northern Mexico--A Superb View of the Sierra Madre--The Devil's Spine Ridge--Guaynopa, the Famous Old Silver Mine--Aros River--On Old Trails--Adventures of "El Chino"-- Cure for Poison Ivy, Pages 99-117 CHAPTER VI Fossils, and One Way of Utilising Them--Temosachic--The First Tarahumares--Ploughs with Wooden Shares--Visit to the Southern Pimas--Aboriginal Hat Factories--Pinos Altos--The Waterfall near Jesus Maria--An Adventure with Ladrones, Pages 118-135 CHAPTER VII The Uncontaminated Tarahumares--A Tarahumare Court in Session--The Power of the Staff--Justice has its Course--Barrancas--Excursion to the Gentiles--Tarahumare Costumes Simple and Inexpensive--Trincheras in Use Among the Tarahumares, Pages 136-155 CHAPTER VIII The Houses of the Tarahumares--American Cave-dwellings of To-day--Frequent Changes of Abode by the Tarahumare--The Patio or Dancing Place--The Original Cross of America--Tarahumare Storehouses, Pages 156-178 CHAPTER IX Arrival at Batopilas--Ascent from Batopilas to the Highlands of the Sierra--A Tarahumare who had been in Chicago--An Old-timer--Flight of Our Native Guide and its Disastrous Consequences--Indians Burn the Grass All Over the Country--Travelling Becomes too Difficult for the Animals--Mr.Taylor and I Go to Zapuri--Its Surroundings--The Pithaya in Season, Pages 179-189 CHAPTER X Nice-looking Natives--Albinos--Ancient Remains in Ohuivo--Local Traditions, the Cocoyomes, etc .-- Guachochic--Don Miguel and "The Postmaster"-- A Variety of Curious Cures--Gauchochic Becomes My Head-quarters--The Difficulty of Getting an Honest Interpreter--False Truffles--The Country Suffering from a Prolonged Drought--A Start in a Northwesterly Direction--Arrival at the Pueblo of Norogachic, Pages 190-202 CHAPTER XI A Priest and His Family Make the Wilderness Comfortable for Us--Ancient Remains Similar to those Seen in Sonora--The Climate of the Sierra--Flora and Fauna--Tarahumare Agriculture--Ceremonies Connected with the Planting of Corn--Deterioration of Domestic Animals--Native Dogs of Mexico, Pages 203-217 CHAPTER XII The Tarahumares Still Afraid of Me--Don Andres Madrid to the Rescue--Mexican Robbers Among the Tarahumares--Mode of Burial in Ancient Caves--Visit to Nonoava--The Indians Change their Minds about Me, and Regard Me as a Rain-god--What the Tarahumares Eat--A Pretty Church in the Wilderness--I Find at Last a Reliable Interpreter and Proceed to Live a l'Indienne, Pages 218-234 CHAPTER XIII The Tarahumare Physique--Bodily Movements--Not as Sensitive to Pain as White Men--Their Phenomenal Endurance--Health--Honesty--Dexterity and Ingenuity--Good Observers of the Celestial Bodies and Weather-forecasters--Hunting and Shooting--Home Industries--Tesvino, the Great National Drink of the Tribe--Other Alcoholic Drinks, Pages 235-257 CHAPTER XIV Politeness, and the Demands of Etiquette--The Daily Life of the Tarahumare--The Woman's Position is High--Standard of Beauty--Women Do the Courting--Love's Young Dream--Marriage Ceremonies, Primitive and Civilised--Childbirth--Childhood, Pages 258-275 CHAPTER XV Many Kinds of Games Among the Tarahumares--Betting and Gambling--Foot-races the National Sport--The Tarahumares are the Greatest Runners in the World--Divinations for the Race--Mountains of Betting Stakes--Women's Races, Pages 276-294 CHAPTER XVI Religion--Mother Moon Becomes the Virgin Mary--Myths--The Creation--The Deluge--Folk-lore--The Crow's Story to the Parrot--Brother Coyote--Beliefs about Animals, Pages 295-310 CHAPTER XVII The Shamans or Wise Men of the Tribe--Healers and Priests in One--Disease Caused by Looks and Thoughts--Everybody and Everything has to be Cured--Nobody Feels Well without His "Doctor"-- Sorcery--The Powers of Evil are as Great as those of Good--Remarkable Cure for Snake-bite--Trepanning Among the Ancient Tarahumares, Pages 311-329 CHAPTER XVIII Relation of Man to Nature--Dancing as a Form of Worship Learned from the Animals--Tarahumare Sacrifices--The Rutuburi Dance Taught by the Turkey--The Yumari Learned from the Deer--Tarahumare Rain Songs--Greeting the Sun--Tarahumare Oratory--The Flowing Bowl--The National Importance of Tesvino--Homeward Bound, Pages 330-355 CHAPTER XIX Plant-worship--Hikuli--Internal and External Effects--Hikuli both Man and God--How the Tarahumares Obtain the Plant, and where They Keep It--The Tarahumare Hikuli Feast--Musical Instruments--Hikuli Likes Noise--The Dance--Hikuli's Departure in the Morning--Other Kinds of Cacti Worshipped--"Doctor" Rubio, the Great Hikuli Expert--The Age of Hikuli Worship, Pages 356-379 CHAPTER XX The Tarahumare's Firm Belief in a Future Life--Causes of Death--The Dead are Mischievous and Want Their Families to Join Them--Therefore the Dead Have to be Kept Away by Fair Means or Foul--Three Feasts and a Chase--Burial Customs--A Funeral Sermon, Pages 380-390 CHAPTER XXI Three Weeks on Foot Through the Barranca--Rio Fuerte--I Get My Camera Wet--Ancient Cave-dwellings Ascribed to the Tubar Indians--The Effect of a Compliment--Various Devices for Catching Fish--Poisoning the Water--A Blanket Seine, Pages 391-407 CHAPTER XXII Resumption of the Journey Southward--_Pinus Lumholtzii_--Cooking with Snow--Terror-stricken Indians--A Gentlemanly Highwayman and His "Shooting-box"-- The Pernicious Effect of Civilisation Upon the Tarahumares--A Fine Specimen of the Tribe--The Last of the Tarahumares, Pages 408-421 CHAPTER XXIII Cerro de Muinora, the Highest Mountain in Chihuahua--The Northern Tepehuanes--Troubles Cropping Out of the Camera--Sinister Designs on Mexico Attributed to the Author--Maizillo--Foot-races Among the Tepehuanes--Influence of the Mexicans Upon the Tepehunaes, and _Vice Versa_--Profitable Liquor Traffic--Medicine Lodges--Cucuduri, the Master of the Woods--Myth of the Pleiades, Pages 422-436 CHAPTER XXIV On to Morelos--Wild and Broken Country--The Enormous Flower-spike of the Amole--Subtropical Vegetation of Northwestern Mexico--Destructive Ants--The Last of the Tubars--A Spectral Ride--Back to the United States--An Awful Thunder-storm--Close Quarters--Zape--Antiquities--When an "Angel" Dies--Mementos of a Reign of Terror--The Great Tepehuane Revolution of 1616--The Fertile Plains of Durango, Pages 437-450 CHAPTER XXV Winter in the High Sierra--Mines--Pueblo Nuevo and Its Amiable Padre--A Ball in My Honour--_Sancta Simplicitas_--A Fatiguing Journey to the Pueblo of Lajas and the Southern Tepehuanes--Don't Travel After Nightfall!--Five Days Spent in Persuading People to Pose Before the Camera--The Regime of Old Missionary Times--Strangers Carefully Excluded--Everybody Contemplating Marriage is Arrested--Shocking Punishments for Making Love--Bad Effects of the Severity of the Laws, Pages 451-470 CHAPTER XXVI Pueblo Viejo--Three Languages Spoken Here--The Aztecs--The Musical Bow--Theories of Its Origin--Dancing Mitote--Fasting and Abstinence--Helping President Diaz--The Importance of Tribal Restrictions--Principles of Monogamy--Disposition of the Dead, Pages 471-483 CHAPTER XXVII Inexperienced Help--How to Acquire Riches from the Mountains--Sierra del Nayarit--The Coras--Their Aversion to "Papers"-- Their Part in Mexican Politics--A Dejeuner a la Fourchette--La Danza, Pages 484-495 CHAPTER XXVIII A Glimpse of the Pacific from the High Sierra--A Visionary Idyl--The Coras Do Not Know Fear--An Un-Indian Indian--Pueblo of Jesus Maria--A Nice Old Cora Shaman--A Padre Denounces Me as a Protestant Missionary--Trouble Ensuing from His Mistake--Scorpions, Pages 496-507 CHAPTER XXIX A Cordial Reception at San Francisco--Mexicans in the Employ of Indians -- The Morning Star, the Great God of the Coras--The Beginning of the World--How the Rain-clouds were First Secured--The Rabbit and the Deer--Aphorisms of a Cora Shaman--An Eventful Night--Hunting for Skulls--My Progress Impeded by Padre's Ban--Final Start for the Huichol Country--A Threatened Desertion, Pages 508-530 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Portrait of the Author _Frontispiece_ A Dasylirion, 1 Cottonwood, 4 _Cereus Greggii_, a small cactus with enormous root, 5 Fronteras, 7 Remarkable Ant-hill, 8 Church Bells at Opoto, 10 Also a Visitor, 11 A Mexican from Opoto, 12 Rock-carvings near Granados, 15 The Church in Bacadehuachi, 17 Aztec Vase, Found in the Church of Bacadehuachi, 18 _Agave Hartmani_, a new species of century plant, 19 Ancient Pecking on a Trachyte Boulder one foot square, 20 In the Hills of Northeastern Sonora, 24 Adios, Senor! 27 View toward the Northwest from Sierra de Huehuerachi, 29 Our Principal Guide Leaving Us, 32 A Mule with its Pack of Crates, 33 The Photographic Mule, 34 On the Crest of the Sierra, 37 Apache Monument, 39 Camp in the High Sierra, 47 Bringing in Deer, 51 The Largest Woodpecker in the World, 54 Distant View of Cupola-shaped Granary in Cave, 58 Single Wall in Cliff, 61 Ground Plan of House Groups in Granary Cave, 62 Cupola-shaped Granary in Cave, 64 Granary in Tlaxcala, 65 Bases of Granaries in Cave, 65 Ground Plan of House Groups in Cave on East Side of the River, 66 Sandal Plaited from Yucca Leaves, 67 Heel of a Sandal, Showing Plaiting, 68 Piece of Wood Showing Drill Mark, 68 Pendant of Wood, 69 Implement for Throwing, 69 Burial Caves in Cave Valley, 70 A Mummified Body, 71 Rock Paintings in White on the Inside of a Burial Cave in Cave Valley, 72 A Trinchera in Cave Valley, 73 Ancient Cave-dwellings in Strawberry Valley, 75 Interior View of Cave-dwellings Shown on Page 75, 76 Exterior View of Cave-dwellings in Strawberry Valley, 77 Objects Found in Mounds at Upper Piedras Verdes River, 81 Painting on Rock on Piedras Verdes River, 82 Figures on Walls of a Cave-house on Piedras Verdes River, 83 Figure on Rock on Piedras Verdes River, 83 Hunting Antelope in Disguise, 84 Casas Grandes, 85 Ceremonial Hatchet with Mountain Sheep's Head.

From Casas Grandes.

Broken, 88 Earthenware Vessel in Shape of a Woman.

From Casas Grandes, 89 Cerro de Montezuma and the Watch Tower Seen from the South, 91 Double Earthenware Vessel, from San Diego, with Hollow Connection at Base, 92 Extension of Designs on Plate I., _a_, 95 The Horned Toad Jar, Seen from Above and Below.

Plate I., _c_, 95 Extension of Designs on Plate I., _d_, 95 Extension of Designs on Plate III., _e_, 95 Extension of Designs on Plate V., _e_, 97 Black Ware, Highly Polished, 97 Extension of Design on Plate IV., _a_, 98 Extension of Design on Plate IV., _b_, 98 Extension of Designs on Plate IV., _c_, 98 Extension of Designs on Plate IV., _f_, 98 Extension of Designs on Plate V., _c_, 98 Ancient Cave-dwelling at Garabato, 101 Part of Cave-dwellings at Garabato, 103 Design in Red on Second-story Wall, 105 Piece of Matting from Garabato Cave, 107 Ancient Cave-houses and Granaries near Aros River, 111 Tarahumare, 119 Tarahumare Plough with Wooden Share, 121 Tarahumare Ploughshare Made of Oak, 122 Tarahumare Ploughshare of Stone, 122 Young Southern Pima, 123 Middle-aged Southern Pima, 124 Southern Pimas Living in a Brushwood Inclosure, 125 Pine Cone Serving as a Comb, 127 Southern Pima Arrow Release, 128 Small Crosses Placed in a Log in Front of Southern Pima House, 128 The Waterfall of Basasiachic, 129 Tarahumare Ploughman, 133 Ancient Stone Hammer Seen in the Presidente's Yard, 134 Tarahumare Indians from Pino Gordo, 137 Tarahumare Court in Session at Cusarare, 140 Barranca de Urique, 145 Our Tarahumare Carriers and the Gobernador, 148 Tarahumare Men, 149 Tarahumare Woman, 150 Necklace of Seeds of _Coix Lachryma-Jobi_, 151 Tarahumare Ear-ornament: one seed _Coix Lachryma-Jobi_ at top.