We were oppressed by a cramped, smothered feeling as we descended from the land of forested mountains and beautiful streams.

At evening we reached San Miguel, the first Zapotec settlement, a little group of houses amid coffee plantings.
[Illustration: FIESTA OF SAN MARCOS; JUQUILA] [Illustration: BRIDGE OF VINES, NEAR IXCUINTEPEC] At the first indian house, we asked if we might have shelter for the night.

The owner cordially answered, "_Como no?
senores_," (Why not?
sirs).

He explained, however, that there was nought to eat.

After eating elsewhere, we made our way back to our lodging-place, a typical Zapotec hut, a single room, with dirt-floor, walls of canes or poles, and thatch of grass.