WE START FOR GUATEMALA (1896) The evening we were at Mitla, Senor Quiero came hurrying to our room and urged us to step out to the corridor before the house to see some Mixes.

It was our first glimpse of representatives of this little known mountain people.

Some thirty of them, men and women, loaded with fruit, coffee, and charcoal, were on their way to the great fair and market, at Tlacolula.

They had now stopped for the night and had piled their burdens against the wall.

Wrapping themselves in their tattered and dirty blankets, they laid themselves down on the stone floor, so close together that they reminded me of sardines in a box.