At least half a dozen times we forded the Tehuantepec river, and everywhere at places which would have justified the name, Xalapa, "the sandy water." Finally, arriving at Xalapa at four o'clock, we found it a large town, of the usual hot, dusty Zapotec kind.

The authorities bestirred themselves vigorously to locate us in comfortable quarters, with an old lady of regal appearance and dignity.

From the start, we feared that this royal appearance and dignity would be paid for, but the opportunity for comfort was not to be neglected.

One of the houses of her royal domain was vacated for our use, and two good cots and a hammock were put at our disposal.

The supper was abundant, and capital in quality, and there was plenty of food for the horses.