After a long climb, we descended into a valley in which lies Tangancicuaro, a large town with a _plaza_ full of fine, great trees, where we ate at a quaint little _meson_.

From here we pushed on to Chilchota, the head town of the Once Pueblos.

From the crest, just above the town, we looked down upon a level valley, green with new wheat.
Entering the town a little after five, we rode up to the _meson_ of San Francisco, near the little _plaza_.

It was with difficulty that we secured a room containing a single bed, with mattress, and two mats.
There was nothing at all to eat at the _meson_, but on strolling out to the _plaza_ we found some Indian women selling _atole_ and bread.
With this we were compelled to be content until morning, paying seven _centavos_ for our four suppers.

Hunting up the _presidente_ of the town, we found him sitting, with his court, on benches in the _plaza_.
He was a pleasant, rather dressy young man, but at once took interest in our work, and told us that Huancito was the best town for our bust work, as the population there is primitive and purely indian.
The Once Pueblos--eleven towns--are famous through this portion of the Republic.