Then the mountains seemed to come nearer to us on each side and to frown down upon us.

We were entering on the Borgo Pass.

One by one several of the passengers offered me gifts, which they pressed upon me with an earnestness which would take no denial.

These were certainly of an odd and varied kind, but each was given in simple good faith, with a kindly word, and a blessing, and that same strange mixture of fear-meaning movements which I had seen outside the hotel at Bistritz--the sign of the cross and the guard against the evil eye.

Then, as we flew along, the driver leaned forward, and on each side the passengers, craning over the edge of the coach, peered eagerly into the darkness.