It would be hard to say, now that so much is changed, wherein the peculiar charm of the old-time city consisted; but it was there, nevertheless, and made itself felt so distinctly beyond the charm of any other place, that the very fascination of Rome was proverbial.

Perhaps no spot in Europe has ever possessed such an attractive individuality.

In those days there were many foreigners, too, as there are to-day, both residents and visitors; but they seemed to belong to a different class of humanity.

They seemed less inharmonious to their surroundings then than now, less offensive to the general air of antiquity.

Probably they were more in earnest; they came to Rome with the intention of liking the place, rather than of abusing the cookery in the hotels.