CHAPTER VIII.
_THE SITUATION IN PERSIA_ (1896).
II.
-- The Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din -- His previous position at Tabriz -- Character and disposition -- His sons -- Accession to the throne -- Previous accessions in the Kajar-dynasty -- Regalia and crown jewels -- Position of the late Shah's two sons, Zil-es-Sultan and Naib-es-Sultaneh -- The Sadr Azem (Grand Vazir) -- Prompt action on the death of the late Shah * * * * * LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS H.I.M.

NASR-ED-DIN, THE LATE SHAH, ON THE STEPS OF THE PEACOCK THRONE FEMALE PIPE-BEARER OF THE ANDERUN PERSIAN LADY AT HOME ARMENIAN MOTHER AND CHILDREN THE PRESENT SHAH (WHEN VALI-AHD) ENTERING HIS CARRIAGE PERSIAN TURK OF THE MILITARY TRIBES A MENDICANT DERVISH OF TEHRAN A DERVISH STORY-TELLER OF TEHRAN H.I.M.

MOZUFFER-ED-DIN SHAH H.H.ALI ASGHAR KHAN, SADR-AZEM * * * * * INSCRIPTION ON THE SEAL OF THE LATE SHAH, SHOWN ON THE COVER.
'_El Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan.
El Sultan, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar_.' '_The King, Son of the King, Son of the King, Son of the King.
The King, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar line_.' * * * * * PERSIA REVISITED CHAPTER I.
-- London to Baku -- Oil-wells and works -- Persians abroad -- Caspian steamers -- Caspian salmon -- Enzelli lagoon -- The Jews in Persia -- Resht trade -- 'My eye' -- Russian road -- The tobacco 'strike,' 1891 -- Collapse of Tobacco Regie -- Moulla opposition.
The Persians, as a people still nomadic in their habits, and much given to long pilgrimages, have good knowledge of the ways and means of making a journey pleasant.

Their saying, '_Avval rafik, baad tarik_' (First a companion, then the road), is one which most travellers can fully appreciate.

Accordingly, when planning a trip in the autumn of 1895 to the Land of Iran, I cast about for a companion, and was fortunate enough to meet with two friends, both going that way, and who, moreover, like myself, had previously journeyed in Persia.
We decided to take the Odessa route to Batoum, and we went by Berlin, Oderberg, and Lemberg.