CHAPTER XVIII.
The steamer Hercules--Syracuse--Neapolis--Ruins--Catanea--Convent of St.Nicholas--Messina--The Duke of Calabria--Palermo--The royal palace--Church of St.Theresa--St.Ignazio--Catacombs of the Augustine convent--Skeletons--Olivuzza -- Royal villa "Favorite"-- St.
Rosalia--Brutality of the Italian mob--Luxuriant vegetation--Arrival at Naples.
October 4th.
At eight o'clock in the evening I embarked on board the Sicilian steamer Hercules, of 260-horse power, the largest and finest vessel I had yet seen.

The officers here were not nearly so haughty and disobliging as those on board the Eurotas.

Even now I cannot think without a smile of the airs the captain of the latter vessel gave himself.

He appeared to consider that he had as good a right to be an admiral as Bruys.
At ten o'clock we steamed out of the harbour of Lavalette.

As it was already dark night, I went below and retired to rest.
October 5th.
When I hurried on deck this morning I found we were already in sight of the Sicilian coast, and--oh happiness!--I could distinguish green hills, wooded mountains, glorious dells, and smiling meadows,--a spectacle I had enjoyed neither in Syria, in Egypt, nor even at Malta.