CHAPTER XVI.
Christian churches at Cairo--The Esbekie-square--Theatre--Howling dervishes--Mashdalansher, the birthday of Mahomet--Procession and religious ceremony--Shubra--Excursion through the desert to Suez-- Hardships of the journey--Scenes in the desert--The camel--Caravans-- Mirage--The Red Sea--Suez--Bedouin camp--Quarrel with the camel- driver--Departure for Alexandria.
I visited many Christian churches, the finest among which was the Greek one.

On my way thither I saw many streets where there can hardly have been room for a horseman to pass.

The road to the Armenian church leads through such narrow lanes and gates, that we were compelled to leave our asses behind; there was hardly room for two people to pass each other.
On the other hand, I had nowhere seen a more spacious square than the Esbekie-place in Cairo.

The square in Padua is perhaps the only one that can compare with it in point of size; but this place looks like a complete chaos.

Miserable houses and ruined huts surround it; and here and there we sometimes come upon a part of an alley or an unfinished canal.