CHAPTER XV.
Cairo--Quarrel with the captain--Rapacity of the beggars--The custom-house--The consulate--Aspect of Cairo--Narrow and crowded streets--Costumes--The mad-house--Disgusting exhibition--Joseph's well--Palace of Mehemet Ali--Dates--Mosques at Cairo--Excursion to the pyramids of Gizeh--Gizeh--Eggs hatched by artificial heat-- Ascent of the pyramids--The sphynx--Return to Cairo.
August 22d.
The aspect of this great Egyptian metropolis is not nearly so imposing as I had fancied it to be; its situation is too flat, and from on board we can only discern scattered portions of its extended area.

The gardens skirting the shore are luxuriant and lovely.
At my debarcation, and on the road to the consulate, I met with several adventures, which I relate circumstantially, trifling as they may appear, in order to give a hint as to the best method of dealing with the people here.
At the very commencement I became involved in a dispute with the captain of the vessel.

I had still to pay him three dollars and a half, and gave him four dollars, in the expectation that he would return me my change.

This, however, he refused to do, and persisted in keeping the half-dollar.

He said it should be divided as backsheesh among the crew; but I am sure they would have seen nothing of it.