When the schooner struck in the sand he was thrown roughly forward, but he managed to regain his feet for an instant, and he leaped outward as far as he could, forgetting to take off his greatcoat.

A returning wave threw him down and passed over his head, but exerting all his will, and all his strength he rose when it had passed, and ran for the land as hard as he could.

The wave returned, picked him up, and hurried him on his way.

When it started back again its force was too much spent and the water was too shallow to have much effect on Robert.

He continued running through the yielding sand, and, when the wave came in again and snatched at him, it was not able to touch his feet.
He reached weeds, then bushes, and clutched them with both hands, lest some wave higher and more daring than all the rest should yet come for him and seize him.