CHAPTER XXII.
The Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele to S.Trinita A city of trams--The old market--Donatello's figure of Abundance--An evening resort--A hall of variety--Florentines of to-day--The war with Turkey--Homecoming heroes--Restaurants--The new market--The bronze boar--A fifteenth century palace--Old Florentine life reconstructed--Where changes are few--S.

Trinita--Ghirlandaio again--S.

Francis--The Strozzi palace--Clarice de' Medici.
Florence is not simple to the stranger.

Like all very old cities built fortuitously it is difficult to learn: the points of the compass are elusive; the streets are so narrow that the sky is no constant guide; the names of the streets are often not there; the policemen have no high standard of helpfulness.

There are trams, it is true--too many and too noisy, and too near the pavement--but the names of their outward destinations, from the centre, too rarely correspond to any point of interest that one is desiring.