The western horn is Mulinuu, the eastern, Matautu; and from one to the other of these extremes, I ask the reader to walk.

He will find more of the history of Samoa spread before his eyes in that excursion, than has yet been collected in the blue-books or the white-books of the world.

Mulinuu (where the walk is to begin) is a flat, wind-swept promontory, planted with palms, backed against a swamp of mangroves, and occupied by a rather miserable village.

The reader is informed that this is the proper residence of the Samoan kings; he will be the more surprised to observe a board set up, and to read that this historic village is the property of the German firm.

But these boards, which are among the commonest features of the landscape, may be rather taken to imply that the claim has been disputed.