The old law of the table was that the mistress was to press her guests with a decent eagerness, to watch and see whom she could encourage to further enjoyment, to know culinary anatomic secrets, and execute carving operations upon fowls, fish, game, joints of meat, and so forth; to cheer her guests to fresh efforts, to whisper her neighbour, Mr.Braddock "I have kept for your Excellency the jowl of this salmon .-- I will take no denial! Mr.Franklin, you drink only water, sir, though our cellar has wholesome wine which gives no headaches .-- Mr.Justice, you love woodcock pie ?" "Because I know who makes the pastry," says Mr.Laws, the judge, with a profound bow.

"I wish, madam, we had such a happy knack of pastry at home as you have at Castlewood.

I often say to my wife, 'My dear, I wish you had Madam Esmond's hand.'" "It is a very pretty hand; I am sure others would like it too," says Mr.
Postmaster of Boston, at which remark Mr.Esmond looks but half-pleased at the little gentleman.
"Such a hand for a light pie-crust," continues the Judge, "and my service to you, madam." And he thinks the widow cannot but be propitiated by this compliment.

She says simply that she had lessons when she was at home in England for her education, and that there were certain dishes which her mother taught her to make, and which her father and sons both liked.

She was very glad if they pleased her company.