If the traveller is anxious to obtain accommodation for man and beast at a place of this stamp he has to proceed warily, so to say, lest he should be requested to move on.

He must advance, hat in hand, and ask to be taken in as a favour, as many a stiff-necked wanderer, accustomed to the obsequious attentions of "mine host," has learnt to his cost.

There is no such dreadful autocrat as your half-and-half innkeeper in South Africa, and then he is so completely master of the situation.

"If you don't like it, go and be d--d to you," is his simple answer to the remonstrances of the infuriated voyager.

Then you must either knock under and look as though you liked it, or trek on into the "unhostelled" wilderness.