But it goes to France and comes back with a French label on it, and then they buy it." I have heard that the most of the French-labeled claret in New York is made in California.

And I remember what Professor S.told me once about Veuve Cliquot--if that was the wine, and I think it was.

He was the guest of a great wine merchant whose town was quite near that vineyard, and this merchant asked him if very much V.C.was drunk in America.
"Oh, yes," said S., "a great abundance of it." "Is it easy to be had ?" "Oh, yes--easy as water.

All first and second-class hotels have it." "What do you pay for it ?" "It depends on the style of the hotel--from fifteen to twenty-five francs a bottle." "Oh, fortunate country! Why, it's worth 100 francs right here on the ground." "No!" "Yes!" "Do you mean that we are drinking a bogus Veuve-Cliquot over there ?" "Yes--and there was never a bottle of the genuine in America since Columbus's time.

That wine all comes from a little bit of a patch of ground which isn't big enough to raise many bottles; and all of it that is produced goes every year to one person--the Emperor of Russia.