This, however, could only be done when the night was farther advanced--it being against the law to cross the river except at certain hours, and between two established points, where officers of the revenue were stationed.

The fisherman was easily bribed, however, to evade the regulation, and only bargained that I should meet him on the bank before daybreak.

Having settled this point to my satisfaction, I returned to my hotel in better spirits; and with a Strasbourg pate, and a flask of Nierensteiner, drank to my speedy deliverance.
How to consume the long, dreary hours between this time and that of my departure, I knew not; for though greatly fatigued, I felt that sleep was impossible; the usual resource of a gossip with the host was equally out of the question; and all that remained was the theatre, which I happily remembered was not far from the hotel.
It was an opera night, and the house was crowded to excess; but with some little management, I obtained a place in a box near the stage.

The piece was "Les Franc Macons," which was certainly admirably supported, and drew down from the audience--no mean one as judges of music--the loudest thunders of applause.

As for me, the house was a great a curiosity as the opera.