An ordinary bill of fare never satisfies him; he plays variations upon the theme suggested, divides or combines, introduces novelties of the most unexpected kind.
As a rule, he eats enormously (I speak only of dinner), a piled dish of macaroni is but the prelude to his meal, a whetting of his appetite.
Throughout he grumbles, nothing is quite as it should be, and when the bill is presented he grumbles still more vigorously, seldom paying the sum as it stands.

He rarely appears content with his entertainment, and often indulges in unbounded abuse of those who serve him.

These characteristics, which I have noted more or less in every part of Italy, were strongly illustrated at the _Concordia_.

In general, they consist with a fundamental good humour, but at Cotrone the tone of the dining-room was decidedly morose.

One man--he seemed to be a sort of clerk--came only to quarrel.