As a structure it makes small appeal, dating only from the seventeenth century, and heavily restored in times more recent; but the first sight of the facade is strangely stirring.

For across the whole front, in great letters which one who runs may read, is carved a line from the Acts of the Apostles:-- "Circumlegentes devenimus Rhegium." Save only those sonorous words which circle the dome of S.Peter's, I have seen no inscription on Christian temple which seemed to me so impressive.

"We fetched a compass, and came to Rhegium." Paul was on his voyage from Caesarea to Rome, and here his ship touched, here at the haven beneath Aspromonte.

The fact is familiar enough, but, occupied as I was with other thoughts, it had not yet occurred to me; the most pious pilgrim of an earlier day could not have felt himself more strongly arrested than I when I caught sight of these words.

Were I to inhabit Reggio, I should never pass the Cathedral without stopping to read and think; the carving would never lose its power over my imagination.