It would not be surprising if the modernization of the city, together with the state of things throughout Italy, had a subduing effect upon Neapolitan manners.

In one respect the streets are assuredly less gay.

When I first knew Naples one was never, literally never, out of hearing of a hand-organ; and these organs, which in general had a peculiarly dulcet note, played the brightest of melodies; trivial, vulgar if you will, but none the less melodious, and dear to Naples.

Now the sound of street music is rare, and I understand that some police provision long since interfered with the soft-tongued instruments.

I miss them; for, in the matter of music, it is with me as with Sir Thomas Browne.