4/13 They look at me dubiously, and ask themselves (I am sure) whether I have not some more tangible motive than a lover of classical antiquity. It ends with a compliment to the enterprising spirit of the English race. Sirocco, of course, dusks everything to cheerless grey, but under any sky it is dispiriting to note the changes in Naples. _Lo sventramento_ (the disembowelling) goes on, and regions are transformed. It is a good thing, I suppose, that the broad Corso Umberto I.should cut a way through the old Pendino; but what a contrast between that native picturesqueness and the cosmopolitan vulgarity which has usurped its place! "_Napoli se ne va_!" I pass the Santa Lucia with downcast eyes, my memories of ten years ago striving against the dulness of to-day. |