The cordial Italian note never sounds in his talk.

The _signora_ (also a little ashamed of her own language) excites herself about taxation--as well she may--and dwells with doleful vivacity on family troubles.

Both are astonished at my eccentricity and hardiness in undertaking a solitary journey through the wild South.

Their geographical notions are vague; they have barely heard of Cosenza or of Cotrone, and of Paola not at all; it would as soon occur to them to set out for Morocco as for Calabria.

How shall I get along with people whose language is a barbarous dialect?
Am I aware that the country is in great part pestilential ?--_la febbre_! Has no one informed me that in autumn snows descend, and bury everything for months?
It is useless to explain that I only intend to visit places easily accessible, that I shall travel mostly by railway, and that if disagreeable weather sets in I shall quickly return northwards.